New Life on the Farm

I’m not talking about my new life on the farm. These hungry little piglets were born yesterday.

I watched for about an hour and saw one come out, and how they all scrambled around in search of the boob and warmth. There were 14 in total and 12 made it through the night.

Eventually they’ll grow up to be big pigs and we’ll make salumi out of then, but right now they’re really cute.

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Spring Brunch: Eggs in a Nest

Spring is my favorite time of year for eating eggs fresh from the farm. The chickens are feasting on grass and bugs galore and you can taste all the new growth and life in their rich golden yolks. Between the production of our “layers”, AKA egg-laying hens, here at North Mountain Pastures, and the many Amish farmers in the area, we eat a lot of eggs. I typically start each day with two fried in lard, or the occasional scramble or omelet if I’m feeling ambitious.

Meanwhile, back in Brooklyn, our pal Ray Bradley provides Brad with eggs, and they are absolutely at their prime right now. On a recent weekend visit home, after our usual dog walk/Greenmarket Saturday morning routine, Brad and I set to making brunch. Inspired by a pile of gorgeous green spinach, tiny fingerling potatoes and a nice bunch of chives, I decided to stray from my ritual frittata and opted for another old favorite – eggs in a nest. Just perfect for enjoying on a lovely Spring day.

After much trial and error, I’ve found that 9 minutes is the perfect time in my oven to have the egg whites set but the yolks nice and runny. You can easily make this for four people; just double the ingredients and choose a large enough skillet to have room for eight little egg nests. Often I’ll sauté ingredients for 4 servings, then remove half and save them to make a nest for more eggs the following day.

Eggs in a Nest

Serves 2 hungry people

  • Oil or fat for sautéing
  • 1/2 lb. potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1″ pieces
  • Salt
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 lb. spinach, cleaned, tough stems removed and coarsely chopped (you can use any greens you like, just adjust the cooking time until they’re nice and wilted)
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 oz. goat cheese (optional)
  • Chives, finely cut or minced (optional)
  • Fresh ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

In a medium, oven-proof skillet, heat a few tablespoons of oil/fat over medium heat. Add the potatoes, season with salt, and sauté, turning occasionally until golden and just tender. Remove the potatoes using a slotted spoon to a bowl and reserve. In the remaining fat, add the garlic, stirring for a moment, then add the spinach and sauté, stirring frequently until just wilted. Return the potatoes to the skillet, and toss to combine.

Turn the heat off and use the back of a large spoon create 4 “nests” or indentations around the pan. Gently crack and egg into each nest. Crumble the goat cheese, if using, around the eggs over the spinach and potato mixture, then transfer to the oven. Cook for 9-10 minutes until the whites are set but the yolks still jiggle when you shake the pan. Remove from the oven, salt the eggs if desired, crack fresh black pepper over the pan, and scatter the chives over top.

Serve in the pan with crusty bread and butter on the side and a big spoon for scooping the eggs and other goodness onto plates.

Odds, Bits and Balls

When we’re not working on the farm, we’re usually eating. This is my kind of place.

Calves and cows on pasture

Several times a day we gather around the table, and as you might expect, there is plenty of meat, goat milk, cheese and eggs at every meal. We also eat our fair share of veggies and a wonderful kitchen garden is just beginning to sprout from seed out behind the farm house. Anna does a lot of the cooking, although I’ve jumped in for the occasional meal as do some of the guys on the farm. It’s mostly improvisation using cuts of meat that we didn’t sell at market or use in CSA shares, and the occasional leftover odds and bits from the butcher shop.

The thing I love about this bunch who I now share my days and meals with is that they’ll eat anything. It’s not on account of foodie bravado, just genuine nose-to-tail awareness – certainly we can find a way to use the leftover parts of the animal and make something delicious. The first week on the farm we had a delicious dish of rice with chicken hearts and livers after a day of cutting up whole chickens for CSA shares. The following week we enjoyed pork tongue tacos that were salvaged from the butcher. When braised, then sliced, fried and served in warm, homemade corn tortillas, tongue is truly tasty. This week we took it to a whole new level – a first for everyone around the table – when I made us Rocky Mountain Oysters, aka fried bull testicles.

North Mountain Pastures "Oysters"

The butcher gave us the sack of balls while we were in the shop making sausage last week, and of course the North Mountain Pastures crew was game to see what we could make of them. But a few days later when they were still in the fridge, I realized that none of the guys could bring themselves to actually prepare the testies, and Anna was certainly not jumping at the task. What is a food-loving butcher wanna-be like myself to do but offer to cook them up? And so after a Google search for “how to cook cow balls” and a bit of recipe cross-referencing, I had a plan and I set to work. The following day when I put the plate of crispy fried “oysters” on the table, they were gingerly sampled and then enthusiastically devoured. It certainly didn’t hurt that I battered them with corn meal fried them in lard, but it turns out that bull testicles really do taste good.

Should you find yourself with a spare pair of balls and feel like you’re up for the task, here’s my recipe:

North Mountain Pastures “Oysters”

  • 2 large bull testicles
  • 2 tablespoons salt
  • 1.5 cups masa harina, or fine cornmeal
  • 1 cup milk
  • salt
  • pepper
  • cayenne
  • lard or neutral cooking oil (for frying)
  • hot sauce for serving

Split the tough skin-like muscle that surrounds each “oyster” with a sharp knife and peel off.
Soak in a pan of salt water for at least 1 hour, up to overnight and drain.

Slice each oyster into 1/4 inch thick ovals. Combine cornmeal, salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne to taste. Roll each slice into cornmeal mixture, dip into the milk, roll again into flour mixture (repeat the procedure for a thicker crust).

Heat 1″ of fat or oil in a heavy skillet or pot until glistening and fry, turning once, until golden brown – a few minutes in total.

Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Serve with hot sauce sauce if desired.

Planning to Leave: Veggie Burgers

I had about a month after deciding that I was going to leave Brooklyn, and Brad, to live on a farm for 8 months before I was expected there. It was a decent amount of time to mentally prepare and also get my affairs in as much order as possible. Primarily Brad and I went out for as many dinner dates as possible.

But when it came down to it I only actually accomplished 2 things in preparation for leaving my home and my kitchen to fend for themselves in my absence. I cleaned my pantry cabinet and made a batch of veggie burgers for the freezer. After that, I was able to pack and leave with some comfort that Brad would be able to identity the barley vs. the quinoa in the cupboard and would also have some pre-made single man dinners on hand.

Veggie Burgers

You can make these with different root veggies (just make sure you have roughly the total quantity called for). They are delicious, they freeze well and can be warmed in the oven for a quick weeknight meal. They pair well with a nice salad and a cold beer.

(makes 12-16 burgers)

  • 4 carrots, grated (about 2 cups)
  • 4 parsnips, grated (about 2 cups)
  • 1 large sweet potato or small winter squash, grated (about 2 cups)
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 3-4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 1 teaspoon caraway seeds
  • 1 teaspoon sesame seeds
  • 1 cup bulgur
  • salt to taste
  • 1 each handful parsley and ciantro, chopped
  • whole wheat english muffins, good cheese and Dijon mustard for serving

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Soak the bulgur in warm water for 15 minutes, drain well.

Combine all veggies in a large bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. In batches, pulse in a food processor adding 1-2 tablespoons more oil only as needed to process until coarsely chopped and moist. (If it’s too wet, they’ll be mushy). Return mixture to large bowl. Mix in 2 eggs, bulgur, seeds, chopped herbs, salt and pepper. Use your hands like you would with any burgers to mix until well combined. If it’s dry and not sticking, add more oil.

Form the mixture into balls, and place on a non-stick baking sheet (or line a baking sheet with parchment paper). Press flat with the palm of your hand to form patties. Bake for 30-40 minutes, or until the patties are soft and golden brown. Serve them on english muffins with good cheese and Dijon mustard.

When cool, layer any uneaten burgers in a flat container with wax paper between them and freeze. To cook from frozen, place the burgers in a 375˚ oven until warmed through, about 20 minutes.

City Girl Gone Country

Apologies for the dramatic pause, but I’ve been in a bit of a transition over the past few weeks. A new and dirtier chapter of my life has just begun. I’m going to attempt to tell you the story of how I got to where I am now – in a trailer, on a farm, in central Pennsylvania – in a paragraph. Here goes…

A view from my humble new abode

You may recall that I’ve taken a serious interest in butchery. Well, back in January I started looking for opportunities to continue learning and turned over every rock I could in search of some kind of apprenticeship. I got a lot of encouragement and met some great people in the process (like the very awesome founders of The Butcher’s Guild) but my quest was otherwise unsuccessful. Then one day I came across a Kickstarter campaign that led me to Brooks and Anna – two young, smart, ambitious farmers who are dedicated to sustainable agriculture and traditional meat processing. And so, after many emails, a visit to the farm, and much planning with my very, very supportive husband, I have just begun an apprenticeship at North Mountain Pastures. I am now a student of farming, butchery, meat curing and a whole new pace of living.

Pastured pork, up close and personal
Farm fashion

For the next 7+ months I’ll be living hours away from the city that I call home. I’m taking leave from my life with Brad in Brooklyn to pursue this solo mission. Now my days are spent working on a farm – there are chickens, pigs and cows to feed and move to fresh pasture, eggs to collect, goats to milk, not to mention sausage to stuff and salumi to cure. A chicken butchering day is on the horizon but for now we’re busy with projects like building mobile chicken shelters, finishing out the new butcher shop and getting the trailer (my new place of residence) in order. For this I’ve dug some holes and spent hours wielding an angle grinder. In between all the work, meals are shared around the table in the farmhouse with a group of people who are slowly becoming my new family.

Not all peeps are made from marshmellows

There will be many tales to tell and I’ll be sharing them here, but for now I’m still settling in and getting used to stepping in ankle deep muck and chicken shit to catch escaped peeps while performing my morning chores.

Last Minute Inspiration: Grilled Lemongrass Beef Lettuce Wraps

When Brad and I are both working in the studio together, an all too typical evening as we approach dinner time usually goes down like this:

While basking in the glow of our computer monitors…
7:14
Me: Hey it’s getting late, what do you say we shut down and go have a life. Brad: Uh huh…
7:43
Me: Have you seen the time? We really ought to stop. Brad: Yeah, OK…
8:02
Brad: Whoa, it’s 8:00. Me: Yeah, I know, we really ought to quit working. Brad: What are we going to eat for dinner? Me: I don’t know, I didn’t have anything planned…
8:27
Me: I’m starving and we really need to go home. Brad: OK… Me: I’m packing up. Brad: Me too.
8:35
Brad: Hey, can I just show you something real quick? Me: Dude, I thought you were packing up…
8:42
Me: Seriously, I’m leaving. See you at home. Brad: OK, yeah… I’ll be there soon.

Needless to say, many meals at Chez T get started late. And while sometimes I have a plan and supplies in the fridge, last Friday was an even worse case where I had no plan and and no groceries to improvise with. Typically I would suggest “The Pasta” or some other household staple, but it being Friday night and all, we were both in the mood for a little something special. You know, the kind of something special that you can start shopping to cook at 9pm.

Brad flipped through some of our cookbooks and suggested a grilled pork and green papaya salad with rice noodles. I liked the idea, but with a quick glance over the ingredient list I knew we’d never find half the stuff. But we wrote it down, and headed out, in search of last-minute grocery store inspiration.

Sure enough, there was no green papaya or jicama to speak of. And the pickings for pork (which our Food Coop sources from local farms, so you tend to get what cuts you can get on any given day) were slim. But there were some good looking grass-fed skirt steaks. And the lemongrass and ginger for the marinade could both be had. We liked the idea of rice noodles and crisp, leafy butter lettuce, but we needed additional fresh accents. While trolling the produce section I spied a box of kumquats. These tiny little citrus fruits can be eaten whole (the rind is sweet and the fruit is sour), and I love to slice them and use them in salads. Confident that we now had a solid plan, Brad scooped up some passion fruit sorbet for dessert, then we checked out and headed home.

Despite the lengthy ingredient list (several of these items are staple pantry goods for many Asian dishes), this meal came together for us in about 45 minutes. We drank some sake, put on a movie, and sat around our coffee table on pillows assembling lettuce wraps and happily licking out fingers. The leftovers kept well, stored in separate containers, and the next day we enjoyed everything again as a wonderful cold lunch on a warm spring day.

Grilled Lemongrass Beef Lettuce Wraps

Serves 4

  • 1 lb. skirt or flank steak, thinly sliced
  • 10 ounces dried rice noodles
  • 1 head butter lettuce, washed and separated into leaves
Marinade:
  • 1 teaspoon grated ginger
  • 1 teaspoon grated garlic
  • 1 stalk of lemongrass, halved, sliced and minced
  • 1/4 cup Japanese soy sauce
  • 2 teaspoons sesame oil
  • 4 teaspoons sake
  • 4 teaspoons sugar
Toppings:
  • Cilantro leaves
  • Thinly sliced kumquats
  • Thinly sliced red onion
  • Also consider: green papaya, cucumber, jicama, mango, roasted and chopped peanuts
Dressing:
  • 6 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 teaspoon Chinese chili paste
  • 1 teaspoon nam pla (fish sauce)

Make the marinade by combining all ingredients in a bowl or large ziploc bag, add the sliced beef and toss to mix well. Cover (or seal) and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

In the meantime, set a pot of water to boil for the noodles and prepare the toppings. Prepare the dressing by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to combine.

Heat a grill or grill pan (I use our cast iron grill pan which works nicely) over high heat.

Cook the noodles in the boiling water according to package directions, transfer them to a colander, rinse them under cold water and drain well.

Working in batches, grill the beef for about 1 minute per side (this will leave it beautifully medium rare, but give it more time if you desire) and transfer to a platter to rest. *If you’re using a grill pan, the sugar in the marinade may start to collect and burn on the ridges after your first few batches, carefully wipe the pan clean with a damp paper towel if this happens and continue).

Place the noodles, lettuce leaves, and toppings on plates to share and serve, along with the plate of grilled beef and the bowl of dressing (put a little spoon in it). Give everyone a small plate and chopsticks, or necessary serving utensils. Using a lettuce leaf as a wrapper, pile a bit of noodles and a piece or 2 of grilled beef into it, then add the toppings of your choice and a drizzle of dressing. Fold, stuff, chew, enjoy, and repeat!

This recipe was adapted from a completely different, but also delicious looking recipe for Grilled Pork with Green Papaya Salad and Rice Noodles from “Takashi’s Noodles”.

Bootleg Farm Finds: Farro Fettuccine with Wild Mushrooms

A few weeks back my friend Margie invited me to the Old Field Farm Bootleg Buying Club. Old Field Farm is a 160 acre farm in upstate NY that explores the relationship of art and agriculture. This was not your average “meet the farmer and buy some things” type of event, but a show of collaboration, design and really, really good food.

OFF Bootleg Buying Club: Whole Hog Butcher Demonstration / Collection of Dried Mushrooms

We wandered around enjoying wine and various tasting tables of OFF products like prosciutto and a most decadent pork rillette. Eventually we made our way out back where a pop-up butcher demonstration and shop had been assembled by Jake and Silka, otherwise known as “The Butcher and the Baker” (be sure to check out their blog post with photos and details of the event). We watched as Jake broke down 2 whole sides of a Tamworth hog from the farm, and Margie eventually purchased a beautiful pork loin rack which he expertly Frenched and tied for her to roast.

The event also featured a beautifully curated shop of edible goods, pottery and books. Wandering among the honey, maple syrup, jams and other items, a curious display in the corner that caught my attention – jars and jars of dried mushrooms. There were Shitake, Chantarelle, Black Trumpet, Hen of the Woods, and several varieties I had never seen before, all of which I set to collecting a mixed bag of to take home.

I thought I would make a risotto with my new fungi collection (and perhaps I still will as another ounce remains), until the following week when Brad and I popped into Raffetto’s – a most magical Greenwich Village shop where you can watch fresh pasta be cut to order. He spied a farro fettuccine which we decided would be a perfect complement to the mushrooms and a different recipe began to take shape in my mind.

I gathered some fresh mushrooms, a mix of Shitake and Oyster, from our Greenmarket mushroom vendor to use in combination with the dried ones. I also threw in some peas from the last of my winter stash. I love them for both contrast in flavor and color, but if you want to enjoy pure mushroom mania, feel free to leave them out of the dish. Adding the liquid from soaking the dried mushrooms and bit of butter will result in a “sauce” that just coats the noodles and makes for one rich and earthy bowl of pasta.

Farro Fettuccine with Wild Mushrooms

  • 1 lb. dried farro fettuccine
  • 1 ounce dried wild mushrooms; a mix of Porcini, Chantarelle, Black Trumpet, Morel, or whatever you can find
  • 1/2 lb. fresh mushrooms, cleaned and cut into 1/2″ pieces or slices; Shitake, Oyster, and Hen of the Woods are all good choices
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • Olive oil
  • Salt
  • 1 cup frozen peas *optional
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • Fresh ground pepper
  • Fresh grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Place the dried mushrooms in a bowl and cover with 2 cups boiling water. Soak for about 20 minutes, or until tender. Strain the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid. Cut up any large mushrooms into 1/2″ pieces

Meanwhile, set a pot of water to boil for the pasta.

Set a large sauté pan over medium heat with a few tablespoons of olive oil. When a flick of water sizzles, add the fresh mushrooms and garlic and about 1 teaspoon of salt. Cook stirring occasionally until the mushrooms release their moisture, and then begin to dry out in the pan – about 6-8 minutes. Add the dried mushrooms that have been soaked and continue cooking for 2-3 minutes. Add 1 cup of the reserved soaking liquid and the peas, if desired, then continue cooking for about 5 minutes, allowing the liquid to reduce slightly. Stir in the butter to melt, season with additional salt to taste and a generous grinding of fresh black pepper and remove from heat.

When the pasta water comes to a boil, add a generous amount of salt and cook the fettuccine until al dente. Strain the pasta and immediately toss with the the mushroom mixture and a healthy grating of cheese. Distribute among serving dishes and serve with addition cheese if desired.

Although it is only mid-March, it seems undeniable that Spring has sprung! 70 degree afternoons are just perfect for enjoying a mid-day meal outside:

Cooking at High Altitude: Amanda’s Green Chili Stew

A few weeks ago Brad and I headed west to spend some time with his family in Colorado and to embark on what has now been deemed our second annual ski trip with Amanda and Alec – Amanda being Brad’s sister and Alec being her best pal, and a good friend of ours as well. Last winter the four of us spent a few days skiing in Tahoe (which was my FIRST time on the slopes) and discovered a wonderful formula: ski, cook, sleep, repeat.

My three companions grew up in Colorado and look natural as hell coming down a black diamond. Me, I took a beginner lesson last year, but have otherwise been initiated as a skiier thanks to their (very patient) teaching, encouragement and occasional forcing of me down a terrifyingly steep run. Despite our varying skill levels, we’ve found that we love hitting the mountain together.

Obligatory photo of Crested Butte

So naturally, a few weeks in advance of our trip, once we’d sorted travel, lodging and gear, the obvious question started to circulate, “what are we going to cook?” Because really we all knew we only had one plan upon returning to the house at the end of each day: dinner together, wine included.

Here’s the menu that eventually took shape:

Day 1: Whole Roasted Chicken, Kale Salad, Root Vegetable Ribbons with Sage Butter

We were ravenous, even though we’d only driven that day, and it was all delicious. Kale salad is old hat and veggie ribbons were a successful trial of this recipe. Alec asked me to show him how to make stock with the leftover carcass. We all fell asleep that night and woke the next morning to the scent of simmering chicken and herbs.

Day 2: Green Chili Stew

Amanda said she’d pretty much perfected her recipe, and it was the best possible use for the stock. We left it to simmer while attending a local Mardi Gras parade and were welcomed by the aroma upon returning. All agreed the stew was tops. It was also confirmed that everything takes longer to cook at high altitude.

Day 3: Mustard Rubbed Pork Chops, Braised Red Cabbage, Root Vegetable Puree

In a moment of inspiration I simmered the leftover ribbons in the rest of the stock, and the resulting puree had us licking our plates. My recently mastered pan-to-oven pork chop cooking method was demonstrated, and no one could get enough of the bacon-y braised cabbage (a previous hit in all of our home kitchens).

Day 4: Braised Brisket, Roasted Sweet Potatoes and Brussel Sprouts

Braised a day in advance, my winter brisket recipe was a nostalgic redux from the previous year’s trip and voted best dish of the week. Week-long accumulation of bacon fat and a jalepeño that escaped the stew gave Alex a leg up on those roasted veggies. Not a bite of them remained.

This past weekend I tested Amanda’s Green Chili Stew recipe in my Brooklyn kitchen and I concur, I think she’s nailed it. We both agree it’d be best to make this with the famous New Mexico Hatch green chiles, but having returned to our respective homes far from the Southwest, a mix of Poblanos for depth and Jalepeños for heat with whatever other green chili peppers you can get your hands on will make do without disappointment.

There were 3 men at my table when said test took place, and seconds were ravenously enjoyed. I recommend you serve the stew with some warm corn tortillas for sopping and a few wedges of lime for squeezing. You can thank Amanda when you realize this one will be in your repertoire for some time to come.

Amanda’s Green Chili Stew

Serves 6-8

  • 2 1/2 – 3 lbs. boneless pork butt, cut into 2″ pieces *you want some fat included in this
  • Neutral oil or bacon fat
  • 4 cups stock *I used some homemade pork stock, but chicken will work just fine
  • 2 lbs. mixed green chili peppers *I used 4 Poblanos, 4 Jalepeños – these are key in the mix – and a few Anaheim and Serrano peppers for good measure
  • 1 lb. tomatillos, peeled and halved
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2″ pieces
  • Water
  • Salt
  • Corn tortillas for serving *optional

In a dutch oven (at least 5 or 6 quarts) or heavy bottomed stock pot, heat a few tablespoons oil or fat over medium-high heat. In batches, not overcrowding, brown the pork on all sides *be sure to pat it dry first, transferring it to a plate as you brown the next batch. When the last batch is browned, add the stock to the pot, stirring and scrapping the browned bits from the bottom, along with any reserved pork. Bring to a boil and then cover and reduce to a simmer for about 2 hours.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350. Place the peppers in a single layer in a shallow roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet. In a second pan or oven proof skillet, place the tomatillos, cut side down. Roast, with the peppers on a lower rack and tomatillos on an upper, for about 30 minutes. Remove the tomatillos and allow to cool, then move the peppers under the broiler for about 5-7 minutes until nice and blackened in spots. Remove the peppers and allow to cool.

In a blender or food processor, puree the tomatillos and set aside. Move the peppers to a cutting board and rub the charred skins off and discard (if you’re sensitive to heat, wear gloves for handling them), remove the stems, and depending on your spice tolerance you may want to remove some or all of the seeds too*, then coarsely chop all of the peppers into roughly 1/2″ pieces. Now, wash your hands before you touch your eyes!

When the pork is ready it should be very tender. Using a fork, pull the pork apart into smaller pieces (you can also remove it to a cutting board with a slotted spoon and coarsely chop it). Transfer the pork and stock to a large bowl and reserve.

Increase the heat on the dutch oven to medium and add a about 2 tablespoons of oil or fat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally until golden brown and soft. Add the potatoes and garlic and stir for a few minutes more. Add the tomatillo puree, chopped chiles, reserved pork and stock. Add a cup or so of water, if necessary, just to cover by about an inch. Bring the whole mixture to a boil and then simmer for another 30-40 minutes until the potatoes are very tender but not falling apart. Taste and season with salt if desired. Serve with warm tortillas and a wedge of lime for squeezing.

*I love me some heat, so after running it by our guests I left the seeds of all the chili peppers in and we all found it to be satisfyingly spicy. If heat isn’t your thing, simply remove the seeds and membranes from all the peppers. To take a safe, middle-of-the-road route, I’d let the Poblanos be, (Anaheims are pretty mild as well) but remove the seeds from the Jalepeños and other hot peppers.

A Salad to Celebrate Citrus Season

For the most part, I’m more or less a locavore by habit, especially when it comes to produce. But Northeast winters are long and one can only eat so many cold storage apples. As February rolls into to March, fresh, local fruit is still a long way off. And so, each Winter I make an exception and turn my taste buds South or West, figuring it’s not the worst thing to support citrus producers in Florida and California. Not to mention a burst of vitamin C does a body good during cold season.

On a more or less daily basis Brad loves a grapefruit with breakfast, and I like a few clementines or a juicy navel orange with my lunch. But lately I’ve been seeing a lot of recipes for citrus, including a citrus granola, and even a citrus brulee. When my pal Alexis was assisting on a photo shoot at Franny’s and sent me a picture reminding me of one of my favorite antipasti, a simple salad of blood oranges, olives, hot pepper and parsley, I decided it was time to shake things up at Chez T.

And so, here is a celebration of citrus season. My own simple salad with a mix of oranges and tangerines, fennel, cilantro, some good olive oil and a touch of Maras chile*. We’re lucky to have access to a most awesome selection of organic citrus at our Park Slope Food Coop – the specimens I chose this time included a Cara Cara red navel orange, a Temple orange, a Mineola tangelo, and a Honey tangerine.

*I picked up the crushed Maras Chile at a fantastic spice shop, Allspice in Des Moines, Iowa. It’s a Turkish chile that is medium-hot, a bit sweet and acidic all at once. I haven’t found anything that doesn’t benefit from a light dusting and it really perked up the citrus salad. You can order from their shop online (pssst! Lizzie, I finally found a spice source for you), so check these guys out.

Citrus and Fennel Salad

Serves 4

  • 4 medium oranges, tangerines, or even grapefruit – mix and match whatever looks good
  • 1 large or 2 small fennel bulbs
  • 2-3 tablespoons good quality olive oil
  • 1 cup of whole cilantro leaves plucked from the stems
  • Sea salt, fresh cracked black pepper
  • Maras chile (or a pinch of cayenne) for garnishing

Thinly slice the fennel bulb (if you have a mandoline, use it) and place them in a bowl. Toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

To cut the oranges: Trim both ends off and stand the orange upright on one of the cut sides. Then cut the the rest of the peel off by trimming down along the orange toward the cutting board, working your way around. Cut the orange in half lengthwise, then lay the 2 halves flat on the cutting board, cut side down, and slice them crosswise into 1/4″ thick half moon shaped slices. Save as much of the juice from the cutting board as possible, transferring it to the bowl with the fennel, and discard any seeds.

When the oranges are ready, give the bowl with the fennel and reserved orange juice a good toss. Then gently toss the orange pieces and the cilantro leaves with the fennel. Taste for seasoning and transfer to a serving plate. Garnish with a light drizzle of a bit more olive oil if desired, then garnish with a sprinkling of chile.

Tomatillo Smothered Spinach, Mushroom and Goat Cheese Burritos

Back in September I shared a recipe for a tomatillo sauce. This is one of my late summer/early fall staples that goes in the freezer until it’s time to brighten up winter. The recipe for the sauce is adapted from Rick Bayless’s Everyday Mexican, which I originally used to make simple spinach and mushroom enchiladas. Eventually, I started making quinoa with pepitas and cilantro, rolling this zesty grain mixture into burritos along with spinach, mushrooms and goat cheese, and smothering them with fresh, spicy tomatillo sauce.

Did you make some tomatillo sauce? If so, it’s time to reach into the freezer and reward your efforts with one of my favorite, not to mention convenient, vegetarian meals. Once you bite into a spicy, smothered burrito, you’ll forget you ever knew such a thing as winter doldrums.

Spinach, Mushroom, Quinoa and Goat Cheese Burritos with Tomatillo Sauce

Makes roughly 4 burritos with some leftovers

  • 1 quart tomatillo sauce
  • 1 cup quinoa
  • 1 cup chopped cilantro leaves
  • 1/2 cup pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds), coarsely chopped or lightly pulsed in a grinder/processor
  • Juice of 2 limes (just 1 if it’s large and juicy)
  • Olive oil
  • 1 large bunch of spinach, rinsed, stemmed and coarsely chopped
  • 1 lb shitake mushrooms, stems removed and sliced
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed
  • 1-2 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped
  • Salt and fresh ground pepper
  • 4 oz. goat cheese, crumbled
  • Flour tortillas (you can use 10″ burrito size, or you can use smaller tortillas and make 2 mini-burritos per person)
  • Additional cilantro leaves and/or sliced avocado for garnish *optional

Either thaw the tomatillo sauce in the refrigerator a few days in advance, or set it in a bowl of water at room temperature a few hours before dinner. Empty it into a saucepan and set to simmer on a rear burner, stirring occasionally.

Preheat your oven to 350.

Meanwhile, rinse the quinoa and place it in a saucepan with a tight-fitting lid. Add 1 1/2 cups water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil and then cover and reduce heat to a simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow to rest and steam with the lid on for about 5 minutes more. Add the cilantro, pepitas and lime juice, and gently toss while fluffing the quinoa with a fork.

In a sauté pan, heat roughly 2 tablespoons of oil over a medium heat and add the mushrooms. Toss to coat with the oil and cook, stirring occasionally until golden and tender (about 5-7 minutes). Add the garlic, cumin seeds, salt and pepper, and cook, stirring for about 2 minutes. Add the spinach (it’s OK to let some water cling to the leaves when you rinse it) and toss, cooking for about 3 minutes until it’s wilted and thoroughly combined with the mushrooms.

Lay out your tortillas on a baking sheet. Pile a few spoonfuls of quinoa onto each tortilla (don’t overdo it or you wont be able to roll them without the contents falling out), then distribute the spinach mushroom mixture on top. Finish each with a bit of crumbled goat cheese and roll the burritos. Place them folded side down on the baking sheet in the oven for about 5-6 minutes. They’ll turn a golden color and begin to crisp on the bottom. Move the burritos to plates and smother them with a ladle or 2 of tomatillo sauce. Garish with some chopped cilantro – you can also add a few slices of avocado on the side – and serve.

*Use your judgment on the filling amounts based on the size of your tortillas and the appetites of your guests. We almost always have leftovers, which you should store separately for making future meals.

The quinoa is great as part of a green salad with avocado and a lime vinaigrette. We also like to make a breakfast burritos of eggs scrambled with spinach and mushrooms and smothered in the leftover tomatillo sauce.