Pairing Wine with Food and Friends (and some notes from a pro)

There was a time when Brad and I entertained like crazy. Life was a string of dinner parties, followed by impromptu dance parties and more dinner parties. Lately these evenings are fewer and farther between, but I still love to host a great night of food and friends.

When it comes to friends, I’m always thinking of who would be interesting to pair as guests. Nothing is better than gathering people from different parts of your life at the same table for a meal, and watching unexpected connections and new bonds form. As for food, I like to form a menu and let it marinate and morph in my mind a few days in advance – it’s usually centered around a particular dish I’m wanting to make and then I look to compliment it with additional courses. But when it comes to the wine, and my pal Steve is coming to dinner, I trust pairings to the pro.

Will you just look at the color of that rosé?! (that's Steven in the center)

Steven Plant is passionate about wine like I am about food, and because he works for a wine distributor, he gets to regularly geek out about wine, meet producers, visit vineyards around the world, and curate his personal collection of “juice”. He’s got a bit of a reputation among our Brooklyn friends (since we’ve long been joining forces for epic evenings where I cook and he pours), and it’s a blast to experience him describing the wines, and the vines, and why that glass will go so well with the delicious plate of food I just put in front of you. The guy just can’t help it.

This past weekend we hosted a dinner party. It came together sort of organically and involved a wonderful mix of great friends. When I invited Steve, our text message conversation went like this:

Me: You guys by chance around Saturday and want to come over for dinner?
Steve: Funny…we were just talking about you guys last night. I was going to email and see what you’re up to this weekend. Yeah, we’re totally down!
Me: Awesome! Our friends Ann and Robert are coming too, they’re great. Will be fun!
Steve: I’ll bring wine if it’s OK? Got tons of good juice right now!
Me: Sure! I’ll let you know what’s cooking when I have a better idea so you can pair.
Steve: Sound like a plan!

(I know, so many exclamation points! But we were excited!!!) A few days later…

Me: Smoked eel app, eggplant pasta, beef short ribs!
Steve: Sounds incredible! Ok, I have some ideas. I’m think it will involve a white, a rose and two reds. In that order.
Me: Careful, I might make you write a guest blog post :) Can’t wait, did we tell you 7:30?
Steve: I’ll definitely do a post, but let’s see how I do first! See you then.
Me: Great! Come hungry!

And so the evening went. I cooked, we ate, Steve poured, we all talked and laughed and talked and ate and drank some more, and the next morning, when I rolled over and pulled the covers over my head, Brad dutifully got up and did the dishes. I had my camera nearby throughout the night, but I was too busy enjoying the company to take photos. The only evidence of success was the aftermath.

Heather’s notes on the menu:

Smoked Eel with Creme Fraiche on Toast
I used my recipe from this previous spring, but instead of spiking the creme fraiche with horseradish, I whisked in lemon zest and a healthy grinding of black pepper. In advance you can slice a baguette and spread in a single layer on a buttered baking sheet. Bake them in a 350 degree oven for about 10-15 minutes per side until they’re golden and just crisp. The eel and creme fraiche can be whipped up just before your guests arrive. Assemble the toasts with a spread of creme fraiche, pile on a bit of eel and finish with a light garnish of minced chive.

Penne with Roasted Eggplant Purée
My new favorite eggplant recipe. I roasted the eggplant in advance and the remainder of the dish was prepared in the time it took for the pasta water to boil, allowing me to cook and serve the pasta immediately to our guests. I used a good quality dried pasta and finished the plates with a light drizzle of a lovely olive oil from Puglia and a dusting of fresh grated Parmeggiano-Reggiano.

Beef Short Ribs
This dish cooked itself while I was busy prepping the day of the dinner. My favorite recipe for short ribs is this ancho chili and coffee braise from Gourmet, but this time I went for a classic red wine braise similar to this recipe. I served the short ribs with some roasted broccoli, sprinkled with grated Pecorino Romano right out of the oven (I liked the crisp texture of the broccoli against the super tender, fall apart meat), some salty oil-cured olives and good bread for sopping up the braising juices.

For dessert we all tucked into an Apple Pie (thanks Laura!) from the wonderful Park Slope patisserie Trois Pommes, with a scoop of Ronnybrook Farm’s Hudson Valley Vanila ice cream.

Steve’s notes on the wine:

2007 Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Le Mont’ Sec, Loire Valley, France
Apples, honeysuckle, stone fruits, and great minerality.

In most peoples’ opinion, Huet is the greatest Vouvray producer…ever. 100% Chenin Blanc from a steep vineyard called ‘Le Mont’. Biodynamic since ‘88.

Smoked Eel is an extremely tough pairing because of its strong flavors, so you want something to stand up to it without being too rich, too sweet, or too dry. Something with fruit (reminiscent of Fall) and good acidity is a great match. Other suggestions might be a Halb-Trocken German Riesling Kabinett, an Alsacian Pinot Blanc, or a Pouilly-Fume (because of its smokiness).

2010 Domaine L’Anglore Tavel, Southern Rhone, France
Cranberry tartness, wild cherry, subtle hints of cinnamon.

Eric Pfifferling started out in the 80’s as a beekeeper and farmer in Southern France. He was “bitten” by the Natural wine bug very early on and is now considered to be one of France’s most talented Natural wine makers. This is a rose made from Grenache & Clairette. Unfiltered, unfined, and no sulfur.

Rosé is one of the world’s most under-rated wines. Period. They can be fruity, bracingly dry, or somewhere in-between. And because of their low tannins and high acidity, they go well with a myriad of dishes. They should be drunk all year round as they are in France or Italy but unfortunately in the States, we only view them as a seasonal wine.

When one thinks of rosé, it’s hard not to think of the best examples from Provence and Tavel (an area in Southern France dedicated exclusively to the production of rosé) and the beautiful vegetables of that sunny, hot region (olives, wild herbs, eggplant, etc.). What better to match the simplicity and sheer deliciousness of roasted eggplant and garlic?! My favorite pairing of the evening.

2004 Domaine Leon Barral Faugeres, Languedoc, France
Blackberry, hints of licorice, spice, and a very fine tannin, lead the way to a fully evolved, rich, yet extremely elegant wine at it’s peak.

Dider Barral, grandson of Leon Barral and outspoken proponent of Biodynamic farming, is blessed with very old vineyards in the Languedoc area of France from which he harvests Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Terret Blanc. The wines from Barral should be on everyone’s short list of wines to drink at least a few times a year (especially in Fall/Winter) and served with hearty, stick-to-your-ribs cooking! Think braised grass-fed meats, stews, cassoulet, roast duck, and even BBQ’d spicy ribs. The 2004 is probably no longer available but if you can locate the 2006 or 2007, you will be in for a real treat as these were both warm years producing very intense and delicious wines.

Great with Heather’s melt-in-your-mouth short ribs and salty, black olives!

2007 Sky Zinfandel, Mt. Veeder, Napa, California
100% Zinfandel from a cool-climate vineyard on the top of Mt. Veeder. 30+ year old vines, organically farmed, ploughed by horse, and the whole winery- completely solar-powered!

Lore Olds, winemaker, artist, hippie, visionary, bon vivant.. Just a few words to describe the person that makes some of the most unruly, wild, and utterly delicious Zinfandels from his beautiful amphitheater of vines at the very top of Mt. Veeder. This is a wine that I distribute and sell so it’s hard to be biased but these wines are so unique. Especially in a world of high-alcohol, over-oaked, over-extracted California fruit bombs. My boss likes to call this ‘old-school zinfandel’ and the wine possesses true ‘Mountain Fruit’ (i.e., wild blueberry, mulberry, black berry, raspberry).

Braised short ribs are a great match but drinking this (and the ’89, ‘90’, ‘93’, ‘97) at the winery with grilled ribeye steaks rubbed down with garlic, sea salt, and fresh thyme over a hot coal fire wasn’t so bad either.

***
Most of these wines can be found at Chambers Street Wines in Tribeca, Uva Wines in Williamsburg, or online at winesearcher.com.
***

Another note from Steve:

I included a picture of the Jersey cows that graze (and indirectly fertilize!) the vineyards of Leon Barral in Faugeres

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Holy Mother of Squash Blossoms!

The last time I ate squash blossoms I was in Italy, they were stuffed with mozzarella di bufala and we enjoyed them while gazing out over Lago Maggiore. But the last time I spotted squash blossoms, prior to this past weekend’s greenmarket, was in my Great Uncle Joe’s garden. He was giving me a tour of his garden and greenhouse, and when I eyed some beautiful blossoms on the zucchini, I told him, “You know, you can eat those. You just stuff them with some cheese and fry them up.” He looked at me and cracked a smile like he knew I was playing a trick on him and said, “Well that doesn’t sound very good!” If he only knew…

When I visited the Evolutionary Organics stand on Saturday, I wasn’t expecting much to choose from (since the farm was flooded, Kira’s offerings are rapidly dwindling by the week). But there on the table was a pile of beautiful, golden squash blossoms practically calling my name.

I spiked some ricotta with a heaping spoonful of pesto and delicately stuffed the blossoms. Then I set to making a “sauce” of heirloom cherry tomatoes with a bit of garlic and a dried red chili.

I used this recipe from Gourmet for the batter; the flour and Parmeggiano-Reggiano cheese whisked with chilled seltzer made for a wonderfully airy coating.

Served with the spicy tomato sauce, the crispy, yet pillowy pesto and ricotta-stuffed blossoms were out of this world. Uncle Joe, you really must try these!

Even compared to the romantic memory of my last experience, these fried squash blossoms were so incredibly delicious I claimed they were the best I’ve ever had. If you think my post title is dramatic, I beg you to make them before it’s too late (the season is fleeting, but I spied some more blossoms while strolling through the Wednesday market at Union Square). I guarantee you’ll take take your first bite and exclaim something of the like.

Pesto Ricotta Stuffed Squash Blossoms

(serves 4 as a starter, or 2 as a main)

For tomato sauce:

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 1 dried hot pepper, crumbled
  • 1 quart of cherry tomatoes, halved
  • Salt and pepper to taste

For squash blossoms:

  • 1 cup whole-milk ricotta (preferably fresh)
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 heaping spoonful of pesto
  • 10-12 large zucchini squash blossoms

For the batter:

  • 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
  • 3/4 cup chilled seltzer or club soda
  • Salt and pepper
  • Neutral oil (canola or vegetable) for frying

Heat the oil over medium-high heat and add the garlic and chili. Cook for a minute until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring a few times until they start to release their juices (about 5 minutes). Reduce the heat to low and allow to simmer, stirring occasionally for about 20 minutes. There should still be some pieces of tomato and the juices will thicken. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, stir together ricotta, egg and pesto. Carefully open each blossom and fill with approximately 1.5 tablespoons ricotta filling, gently twisting end of blossom to enclose filling.

Mix together flour, cheese, some salt and pepper in a bowl. Whisk in the seltzer.

Heat 1/2 inch oil to 375°F in a 10-inch heavy skillet (I didn’t actually check the temperature, I heated it over a high heat and tested the oil by dropping a bit of batter in, it should bubble and fry to a golden color in a minute or two). Dip the blossoms in batter to thinly coat and fry, turning once, until golden, about 2 minutes total. Transfer with tongs to paper towels to drain. Fry them in batches that will fit in your pan, careful not to crowd them, and allow the oil to reheat between batches.

Serve with tomato sauce.

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Cream of the Crop: Pasta with Eggplant Purée

This past Spring I finally subscribed to La Cucina Italiana. I’ve always eyed the magazine display whenever I shop at Buon Italia, and I thought reading and translating recipes would be a good way to practice my Italian. So I was a bit disappointed when my first issue arrived and it was in English (I realize now I need to subscribe specifically to the Italian edition)… but I was not at all disappointed when The Pasta Issue showed up.

In my house I could serve pasta every night of the week and there would never be a compliant from Brad. The first time we traveled to Italy together, in our enthusiasm to taste the unending variety of regional pastas we came across, we both found out what happens to a person who eats pasta for lunch and dinner every day for 15 days straight (I’ll give you a hint, 10 pounds and an unhappy digestive system). I think it took me a year to work that trip off and still, I ain’t afraid.

One very fine eggplant

And then there is eggplant, possibly my favorite vegetable of this transitional season. They’re just so handsome, not to mention delicious! The most traditional eggplant dish I make is parmigiana, favoring a recipe from Anne Willan’s Good Food No Fuss. The sliced eggplant is roasted instead of fried, layered with fresh tomato sauce, basil, mozzerella and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, then baked to a state of molten amazingness. I serve it with some crusty garlic bread in late August when cooler nights call for comforting dishes like this one.

Dalla mia cucina: Penne con crema di melanzane

This year I’ve been on the hunt for a new way to celebrate the mighty eggplant, or aubergine, or melanzane, depending on your preference. I’ve tried Alice Waters’ Ratatouille and Yotam Ottolenghi’s Lentils with Broiled Eggplant, but neither of them were eggplant-centric enough for me. It was The Pasta Issue that revealed my new favorite dish. If you love eggplant and pasta half as much as I do, look no further. The recipe is so simple and the eggplant yields a silky, rich sauce for the noodles – truly a crema di melanzane.

Rigatoni with Roasted Eggplant Purée

Rigatoni con crema di melanzane from La Cucina Italiana

  • 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 pounds eggplant
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • Fine sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 2 tablespoons pine nuts
  • 1 garlic clove, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 pound rigatoni
  • Freshly grated Grana Padano or Pecorino Toscano cheese (I used Pecorino Romano)

Heat oven to 400º with rack in the middle. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut eggplants in half lengthwise; score flesh-sides in a crosshatch pattern with a small sharp knife. Brush with 1 tablespoon oil and season with generous pinch salt and pepper. Arrange eggplant cut-side down on prepared baking sheet and bake, rotating pan once halfway through, until tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Transfer baking sheet with roasted eggplant to wire rack. Turn eggplant halves cut-side up; let cool 5 minutes, then scrape eggplant flesh from skins; discard skins. Place flesh in a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl; let drain 10 minutes. Discard liquid.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In center of cutting board, mound parsley, pine nuts, garlic and oregano; finely chop together mixture. In a large skillet, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add parsley mixture, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, 3 minutes. Stir in eggplant and cook 1 minute more. Remove skillet from heat.

Cook pasta in the boiling water until al dente; drain and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add eggplant mixture and cheese; toss to combine well. Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve immediately.

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A Challenge: D.I.Y. Ricotta

Today is the last day of September (how did that happen so quick?), and also the last day of the NY Locavore Challenge – I just learned more than 1,400 people across NY State were involved. In addition to taking on a 250 mile diet (you are allowed a few exceptions to make this possible, and many days without additional effort I found we were already eating this way), there were a series of mini-challenges proposed to participants. What I became increasingly grateful for over the coarse of the past month is how these activities are a part of our lives. We’re already doing all of these things:

  • Shop at a Farmers Market, Farm Stand or U-Pick
  • Dine at a Locavore Restaurant
  • Join a Food Co-op
  • Eat (at least) 5 Servings of Local, Organic Fruit & Veggies per Day
  • Cook with Local Oils, Grains, Meats & Cheeses
  • Sip on Local Milk, Juice, Beer, Wine & Spirits
  • Swap Sugar for Local Honey & Maple Syrup
  • Try Food Preservation (Canning, Freezing, Drying)
  • Grow an Herb Garden

But there was one challenge that jumped out at me from the start, something I don’t already do:

  • Make Your Own Butter, Yogurt, or Ice-Cream

Years ago Brad and I got an ice cream maker. One summer with an over abundance of peaches from our CSA, we made peach ice cream. It was divine, but we never did it again. And lately Brad and I have been talking more and more about making our own yogurt – we eat a lot of it – but we have sources for such amazing yogurt at our Food Coop, that it seems like it’s not worth the effort. So here I was thinking this would be my challenge, when I stumbled across a recipe in the September issue of Bon Appetit for D.I.Y. Ricotta. Make your own…cheese? Why not? Fresh ricotta is one of those things I’ve always loved and intended to learn to make on my own.

What sold me on this recipe was how EASY it looked. It called for 4 things; milk, cream, salt and lemon juice. And it sounded so doable. So like a good little locavore I got myself some Ronnybrook milk and cream, and the other night I set to it. I followed the recipe and heated the mixture and then let it rest so the curds and whey could separate. Problem was it didn’t seem to be curdling. At that point I went online and saw that there were several comments on the recipe from people saying it didn’t really work. It didn’t produce the curds it was supposed to, even with the addition of more acid and a second heating, and that the yield from all that milk was disappointing – 5 cups reduced to a half cup. I kicked myself for not looking this up earlier and feared that I would be wasting all that precious milk and cream.

You may not know this about me, but I’m a bit competitive. I only like to do things I’m good at. And you know what else, I hate a bad recipe! So I finally had it, a real challenge.

I headed back to the kitchen and I added more lemon juice to the mixture, then I returned it to the stove to come to a boil for a second time and set it to cool. This time there was some action. I gently spooned the curds into a cheesecloth-lined mesh sieve, thinking that I had broken the whey up too much in my doctoring. And determined to get a better yield than the other cooks, I took the remaining milk mixture in the saucepan and I poured it through a second cheesecloth, then I added the whey that collected from it to the first batch. I let it all sit, worried that it looked too liquidy and runny, and I went to watch a few episodes of Breaking Bad (yes, thank you Netflix, we’re now hooked too). Now the recipe mentioned that the longer you let it sit and drain, the thicker and richer the ricotta will become. When I came back to check on it several hours later, I found thick, rich and hella creamy ricotta waiting. Even better, it was a generous cup’s worth. Success!

The next morning we enjoyed the ricotta with some damn good focaccia from Scratchbread and a big drizzle of Ray Bradley’s wildflower honey. It was a beautiful morning and the ricotta could not have been more delicious. Life is good when you’re a locavore.

*I’m not sure I’d recommend this recipe, since the results seem to be mixed. But with the addition of the 2nd tablespoon of lemon and using Ronnybrook Farm’s whole milk and heavy cream, mine turned out pretty amazing. I’ll try repeating it again soon an would love some tips, tricks or recipes from any seasoned ricotta pros out there.

***

As I mentioned at the start of this month, the Locavore Challenge was not so much challenging for me – our lives already revolve around local food and the people who grow and bring it to us – as it was a month of awareness and, as it turned out, appreciation.

I can’t write about eating local without reminding you all of the many upstate farmers who are still in need. There have been several great articles about my friend Ray Bradley this week, in the New York Times and on Gilt Taste. I also recommend you watch this incredibly moving video from The Perennial Plate. For a growing list of ways you can offer support, check out my post, The Rally to Support Farmers Post-Irene.

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Bistro at Home: Moules Frites

One of my favorite dishes to make at home is steamed mussels. We’re lucky to have access to deliciously fresh, local mussels from Blue Moon Fish at our greenmarket. A great thing about them is that while they are wonderful eaten the same day, they can hang for a few days in the fridge until you’re ready for them. I typically buy some fish fillets on Saturday for that night’s dinner, and plan for mussels as an easy weeknight dish to come.

For the longest time I always served them with crusty bread, but this Summer I’ve been having luck with with making oven roasted fries. So I can get all fancy now and call them Moules Frites. This is a super easy and improv-friendly dinner. The only labor intensive part is cleaning the mussels. Here’s how:

  1. Start by soaking the mussels in a big bowl of fresh cold water. They’ll expel sand from inside their shells as they breathe.
  2. Then, using a firm brush, clean the sand and grit from the shells of the mussels under running water. (I like to keep them in a colander, set in a larger bowl beneath the running water while I do this. Once you’re done scrubbing you can lift the colander out of the bowl and dump the gritty water. Keep doing this until it’s clear.
  3. Some mussels may have a beard. You remove this by gripping and yanking it towards the hinge edge of the shell. If it’s stubborn, you can use a knife.

Diagram 2. External Features of a Mussel
Here’s a diagram of a mussel with a beard that I found on the internet. →

Once they’re clean, proceed to steaming those mollusks. I can generally proceed from here with whatever ingredients are already in the kitchen and a cup of whatever we’re drinking with dinner. Use the recipe below as a template.

Chili and beer steamed mussels with cilantro

My Formula for Steamed Mussels

Serves 2 as a main (figure about 1 lb. mussels per person)

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • *or* 2-4 leaks, sliced
  • 1-2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
  • big pinch of red chili flakes
  • pinch of saffron or paprika (optional)
  • salt and pepper
  • 1 tomato, coarsely chopped (optional)
  • 1 cup white wine or beer
  • 2 lbs mussels, cleaned
  • parsley, cilantro or other fresh leafy herb, coarsely chopped

In a heavy bottom stockpot with a lid, heat the oil over medium heat. Cook the onion or leak for about 5-8 minutes until tender and lightly golden. Add the garlic, chili, and spices if you’re using any, and continue to cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring. Add the tomato at this point, if you want, and cook, stirring occasionally for about 5 minutes until they start to release their juices. Add the beer or wine and the mussels, some salt and pepper and give it all a good toss. Cover the pot and cook for about 6-8 minutes – shaking the pot every now and then – until the mussels are open. Toss the chopped herbs with the mussels and broth.

It may take a bit more time, but when most of the mussels are open, begin to transfer them with tongs or a slotted spoon to serving dishes. At this point if there are any unopened mussels, you can give them another minute or two and a shake in the pan, but if they don’t open, that means they weren’t alive when you cooked them and you don’t want to eat them.

Discard any unopened mussels and ladle some of the broth over each of the dishes. Serve with crusty bread or frites for dunking.

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All in a Week’s Waistline

People often ask me if Brad and I eat out a lot – I suppose that depends on what you consider to be a lot. Most of the time we cook and eat 3 meals a day at home. And although we occasionally go out to breakfast or head out in search of a good sandwich for lunch, we try to avoid the convenience of mediocre neighborhood take-out food and save our restaurant wad for a once weekly dinner out.

Last week, however, all hell broke loose. I was feeling healthy and rested after my return from Utah, having spent 5 days active in nature and eating simple, satisfying foods. One week later, I was juggling my schedule to squeeze in extra morning workouts and questioning which of the dresses in my closet might fit for the wedding I attended this past weekend.

I don’t usually write about restaurants – I assume they’re of little interest to those of you outside of NYC, and I don’t usually feel comfortable taking photos (hence the crappy iPhone photo below) while dining in them. But perhaps my gluttonous appetite will impress, or appall, you. Here are some highlights from a delicious and decadent week of excess.

Cheese course: A Roasted Fig Tart with Roomano Pradera paired with Victory Helios Saison

Date night at Franny’s
Franny’s has been a long standing favorite Brooklyn restaurant of mine and last week Brad and I celebrated my return with a meal there. A plate of their salumi (which you can also find at their cheese and provisions shop, The Brooklyn Larder) is a heavenly celebration of cured meats. Seasonal antipasti are always inspired – this time we enjoyed Wood-Roasted Pole Beans with Shallots, Colatura (anchovy sauce) and Chilies, and for me, their clam pizza is non-negotiable. Simply topped with red chili, parsley and olive oil, I never go there without insisting we order one. Their list of Italian wines never disappoints and I will note that this time I passed on dessert for a flight of amari – Franny’s has an impressive selection of the bitter digestivo that I love so much.

Brunch at Mile End
Brad and I have been riding our bikes past this place for ages, always saying, “we’ve really got to go there”. When we finally had a chance to visit for a brunch date with our lovely friend Kate Joyce, I found myself wishing this incredible spot was in my neighborhood. Although maybe it’s better it isn’t, as I’d be visiting their takeout window all too often. Described as a “Montreal Jewish Delicatessen in Brooklyn”, that day’s special was an eggs benedict with duck pastrami. I enjoyed lattkes and smoked salmon and some insane brisket from Brad’s smoked meat hash. We washed everything down with some strong Stumptown coffee and I’m sure I used at least a handful of those calories on our 5 minute bike ride home.

Victory Beer Dinner at Colicchio & Sons
How to even begin to describe the delicious insanity that was this dinner… A few weeks back I purchased tickets for Brad and I to attend this event – we’re big fans of the Victory Brewing Company and I’ll get behind anything from the folks at Craft (especially a ‘wichcraft sandwich). We enjoyed a 5 course dinner in the Colicchio & Sons private dinning room, during which Brad and I happened to be seated across from Victory brewmaster Bill. Each menu item was inspired to be paired with a Victory beer – including some amazing seasonal specialties that you’re not likely to find far from the brewery.

While I might be tempted to name the Nieman Ranch beef sirloin with bone marrow and oxtail marmalade – or the milk chocolate ganache in a pretzel tart shell topped with a peanut butter mouse and served with a banana sorbet as my favorites (are you drooling yet?) – it was really a night about pairs. A beautiful piece of swordfish served with whipped yukon gold potatoes, fairytale eggplant, and a lemony herb puree brought all the nuanced flavors of the Victory Braumeister Pils to life in a way that left we wanting more for days to come.

Power Lunch at La Esquina
Brad and I have two clients in Soho right now, and we never leave a meeting in that neighborhood without making a taco stop at La Esquina (even if the previous night included the extravagant meal mentioned above). I favor the Cochinita Pibil (which inspired these tacos) – pulled pork, shredded cabbage, pickled onions and jalapeno. Brad’s favorite has long been the Pescado – grilled skewered market fish, shredded cabbage, red onions and salsa verde. We’ll both have one of each of these while we reflect on the afternoon’s events and sip on some ice cold horchata at the counter of the taqueria.

***

Now I’m looking forward at the coming week after the all day eating affair that was yesterday’s Annual Bradley Farm Festival. Hot dogs, chili, clam chowder, grilled pork shoulder, turkey, and duck were all consumed in a day along with our friend Kurt’s incredible home brewed beers and a bit of banana cream pie. I’m thinking there ought to be some salads in my meal plans. But then again, what fun would that be?

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Freeze This: Tomatillo Sauce

The official start of Fall is nearly upon us, although I started saying goodbye to Summer last week when I returned to Brooklyn to find the weather had taken a turn towards crisp days and cool nights. I’ve started wearing a coat and socks again, and sandals are a thing of the past.

September is a most amazing month for cooking and eating local. I may be mourning the passing of beach days, but right now there is an overlap in harvests where many of the incredible foods of Summer coexist with early Fall crops. It is one of my favorite times of year, although fleeting as yesterday’s Locavore Challenge email reminded me:

Summer crops are on their way out and fall crops are beginning to emerge in the markets. Take advantage of the last of summer tomatoes, sweet corn and zuchinni, and get ready to welcome in winter squash and greens.

If you haven’t gotten around to preserving summer foods for the long Winter ahead, now is the time. I’ve been craving one last pot of corn chowder, and when it comes to sauces, tomatoes aren’t the only thing I’m hoarding. One of my storage staples is tomatillo sauce. I make it and freeze it now so I can smother enchiladas or burritos filled with hearty greens and mushrooms, or eggs and potatoes later. This bright and spicy sauce is a welcome treat when Summer flavors are only a memory.

Look forward to my go-to burritos (with mushrooms, spinach, quinoa and goat cheese) smothered in Tomatillo Sauce later this year. You’ll thank yourself for having a few quarts of this good stuff in the freezer when the time comes.

Tomatillo Sauce

  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1-2 fresh hot chilies (to taste, serranos, jalepeños or habeneros), stemmed and coarsely chopped
  • 1.5 lbs. (10-12 medium) tomatillos, husked, rinsed and quartered
  • 1 cup loosely packed cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
  • 2 cups stock
  • 3 tablespoons sour cream, heavy cream or creme fraiche

In a food processor or blender, puree the garlic, chilies, tomatillos and cilantro until smooth. In a heavy saucepan or stockpot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the puree and cook, stirring frequently until thick and reduced to the consistency of tomato sauce. Add the stock and simmer for 10 minutes to allow the flavors to blend. Season to taste with salt (or sugar) if needed. When ready to serve, stir in the cream.

*I usually double this recipe and freeze it without the cream, then I add it when I defrost and reheat the sauce.

This Tomatillo Sauce is adapted from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless. It’s a great book of approachable recipes for traditional Mexican dishes – a favorite from my cookbook shelf.

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Canyon Cooking: Westwater Chili

On Thursday afternoon I arrived home from Utah and spent a few quiet hours alone in our apartment praying my brain wouldn’t catch up to my body too soon. I closed my eyes that night and dreamed of big skies and canyon walls, missing the desert, and the river, and my friends – boys who have grown into men during the time we’ve been in each other’s lives.

An early morning press check on Friday brought me back to reality and soon enough I was settled into my Brooklyn life again. Brad and I are both crunching on deadlines this weekend which means I’m also back to staring at computer screens instead of up at the stars. But there has been a hot date, an art show, meals, drinks and conversations with friends since I’ve returned, and it does feel good to be home.

During my time out West there was road food and camp food. There was melon cut with a pocket knife, shared as we hiked through Arches National Park, and peanut butter and jelly prepared and passed as we floated downstream. Tired after long days on the river, there were meals cooked on an open fire and eaten by the light of the rising moon at our campsite. In nature and the company of friends who are more like family, nothing could have been more satisfying.

One night I made a vegetarian chili that took shape from what was on hand. I had planned to include acorn squash, but there wasn’t a sharp enough knife to cut it so zucchini went in instead. I discovered some cinnamon intended for French toast in the camp kitchen and added it for a subtle undercurrent to the other spices. Poblano chilies were roasted over the fire and cornbread was baked in a dutch oven with hot coals. Eventually the ingredients in our big pot simmered into a smoky, spiced stew that warmed us up to the night.

Yesterday I picked up some of the last zucchinis and tomatoes of the season from the Greenmarket and set to recreating the chili at home. I traveled back in my mind as I cooked, and inhaled the memory of that magical meal as we sat down to eat. Brad asked me if it held up to the original. I told him it was missing the campfire, and the sound of the river rushing by. But it turns out this dish is a satisfying farewell to Summer and a warm welcome home to Fall in Brooklyn, or wherever you might be.

Westwater Chili

Serves 8-10

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 medium or 1 large onion, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 tablespoon cumin
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 can (15 oz. / 2 cups) crushed tomatoes *or use 2 tomatoes, chopped
  • 2 cans (15 oz.) pinto beans, rinsed and drained
  • 1 can (15 oz.) black beans, rinsed and drained
  • 3 cups stock *I used some water and veggie bouillon when camping
  • 3 medium or 2 large (about 12 oz.) zucchini, cut into 1/2″ pieces
  • 4 Poblano chilies, fire roasted
  • Handful of cilantro, coarsely chopped
  • Sour cream and cornbread for serving

Prepare the Poblanos by roasting over an open flame (use a grill, or the flame on your stove burner) until charred all over. Remove to a brown paper bag (rolled closed) or a bowl covered in plastic wrap and allow to steam. When cool enough to handle, rub off the blacked skins and cut the chilies into 1/2″ x 1″ strips. You can discard the stems and inner ribs, but keep the seeds if you like the heat.

In a large pot, cook the onions in oil over medium heat until soft (about 10 minutes), add the garlic and spices and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for a few minutes until fragrant. Add the tomato, beans and stock – increase the heat and bring to a bubble, then add the zucchini and chilies and reduce to a simmer. Cook until the zucchini is just tender, 15-20 minutes.

Stir in the cilantro, and serve. I recommend a dollop of sour cream and a side of cornbread for sopping.

*If you want to sub the zucchini for acorn or butternut squash (I plan to this Fall season) – simply peel, discard the seeds and cut it up, then increase the simmering time to allow for the squash to become tender.

Homestyle Westwater Chili
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Yesterday it Rained in the Desert

I woke up next to the Green River this morning. I’m in Southern Utah surrounded by some of my best and oldest friends. In a few hours I’ll get on a boat and spend the next few days on the Colorado river, completely untethered.

I’ll wake up from this dream on Thursday and head back to Brooklyn where Brad is looking after Francine and Bad Feather, allowing me to have this escape. I hope he doesn’t starve while I’m gone.

As for food memories, don’t worry about me – I’m in Melon Country. See you on the flip side.

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Braised Pork Taco Magic

Last summer Brad and I just couldn’t get enough of grilled pork tacos. I get these country style ribs from Ray Bradley, marinate them overnight, then Brad gills them low and slow. Our ritual is to thinly slice that lightly charred, juicy-as-can-be pork, pile it into warm tortillas, and top it with grilled tomatillo salsa and a bit of cojita or queso blanco cheese.

Hot to eat a taco, by Brad

Labor Day has come and gone, and the weather is quickly turning cool, but I’m just not ready to let go. So at the start of this week, I planned for grilled pork tacos. But the following day when the pork was marinated and ready to roll, it was rainy and cold – definitely not “hang on to summer and fire up the grill” weather. Fortunately, that same day I read the NY Locavore Challenge email suggesting I shake things up and try a different cooking technique, and with that, inspiration struck. It’s not Summer any more, which means it’s OK to have the oven on all day. I decided to braise that pork.

And so when I can home for lunch, I removed the pork from the marinade, and browned it in a hot skillet. Then I transfered it to an over-proof dish, poured the marinade back over the pork (I used an 8″ baking dish so the liquids would come up nice and high on the meat), covered it tightly with foil, put it in the 250 degree oven, and forgot about it. That is of course until I came back 6 hours later to the smell of spicy, braised pork wafting through the apartment…

Admit it, you wish this taco was making its way to your mouth right now.

The actual tacos that came out of this process where a bit of an improvisation – including some red cabbage, which I tossed with lime and salt to quickly pickle while the pork braised, and an avocado, (locavores, cover your eyes!) which happened to have made its way from California to my kitchen, that I sliced to include with the pickled cabbage as garnish. But the key to the awesomeness that is Chez T Tacos (grilled or braised – although from now on I fear Brad will make a case for the braise), are 3 killer local products:

Bradley Farm Country Style Ribs

These aren’t actually “Ribs”, they’re cut from the shoulder and while they occasionally include a bit of blade bone, are typically boneless. They have just the right amount of fat to cook up juicy as all hell every time. *If you can’t find country style ribs, I’d go for some typical pork shoulder cut into a few pieces. But no matter what, buy your pork from someone who knew what the pig looked like.

Hot Bread Kitchen Handmade Corn Tortillas

I can’t say enough about how totally amazing these tortillas are. Not because Hot Bread Kitchen is a Bad Feather client, but because they are handmade from fresh ground organic corn and they are the best damn tortillas I’ve ever had outside of Mexico. We opt for the steaming method to heat them and find they’re just perfect for tacos.

Narragansett Creamery Queso Blanco

These guys make artisan cheeses with fresh, local milk – and while I first discovered them when I brought some of their fresh ricotta from the Park Slope Food Coop, I’m gonna just go ahead and say this – their Queso Fresco is off the hook. It crumbles just right atop your taco. All that’s left to do is take a bite and let the juices run down your arm.

And just in case you’re wondering…

My Pork Taco Marinade

(For 1.5-2 lbs. pork)

  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 4 cloves garlic, smashed, peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 2 jalapeños (or habaneros if I have ’em), sliced – seeds and all
  • 1 heaping tablespoon New Mexico Chili powder
  • 1 teaspoon allspice
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt

Combine all ingredients with the pork in a gallon ziplock bag. Swish it around to combine, refrigerate overnight and wait for the magic to happen.

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